“I’d say Partners Coffee Roasters made this for the coffee aficionado who needs a kick in the pants.” – Geoff Rickly, coffee. curated.
Navigating the vibrant coffee scene of New York City, it’s easy to get lost in the myriad of roasters and cafes vying for attention. Recently, a conversation with my friend Paige Flynn, now Director of Retail at Toby’s Estate, led me to reconsider a Brooklyn coffee institution: Partners Coffee Roasters, formerly known as Toby’s Estate. My initial coffee snobbery, focused on smaller, seemingly more ‘indie’ roasters like SEY Coffee and Devociòn, had blinded me to a significant player right under my nose. Paige’s simple question, “What about Toby’s Estate?” was a wake-up call.
Wide shot of Partners Coffee Roasters cafe interior
My perception of Toby’s Estate as a large, perhaps less focused entity was quickly challenged. Paige corrected my misconception, highlighting that Toby’s Estate in New York was, in fact, the largest independently owned and operated cafe and roastery in the NY area. This revelation prompted an invitation to visit, to meet the team, explore their roastery, and most importantly, taste their coffee. My past experiences with Toby’s in Australia were positive, but I wondered, had the New York coffee scene surpassed them? My preconceived notions were about to be tested.
During my visit, Allie, the Director of Education, clarified a crucial point: “We were never the same Toby’s Estate as the Australian Toby’s.” This distinction, she explained, was a significant factor in their rebranding to Partners Coffee Roasters. The roast profiles, she emphasized, were distinctly different. Partners Coffee caters to diverse palates across their Brooklyn cafes, offering blends like Flat Iron (darker) and Bedford (sweet and chocolatey), alongside a dynamic seasonal rotation of Single Origin coffees. This focus on Single Origins piqued my interest. I had feared a generic, crowd-pleasing approach, but a robust seasonal Single Origin program signaled a commitment to serious coffee.
Geoff Rickly from Coffee Curated interviewing Partners Coffee Roasters team
My conversation with Allie delved deeper into coffee preparation methods. She shared meticulously detailed zines, beautifully illustrated by Justin Buschardt, outlining precise recipes for drip, filter, press, and espresso brewing. This dedication to education and brewing precision further impressed me. Allie generously provided a selection of their Single Origin offerings: Honduras La Cueva, Costa Rica Santa Teresa, Colombia Los Primas, and Ethiopia Worka Sakaro, along with their seasonal espresso, Elevate, and the popular Brooklyn Blend. She encouraged me to understand the appeal of these widely enjoyed blends.
While the packaging has evolved into vibrant, eye-catching bags emblazoned with ‘PARTNERS’, the core coffee profiles remain consistent. The blends retain their familiar names and flavors, but crucially, the Single Origin program continues to thrive. Even as I write this, I’m enjoying a wonderfully roasted Partners Burundi coffee, a testament to their ongoing commitment to quality.
Assortment of Partners Coffee bean bags
“But a well-developed seasonal Single Origin coffee program? This was starting to look like my kind of shit.”
Honduras, La Cueva: A Spice-Forward Revelation
Partners Coffee Honduras La Cueva bean bag
Dialing in the Honduras La Cueva took a few attempts, but the reward was exceptional. This Single Origin coffee is truly unique. It’s dominated by warm baking spices – cinnamon, clove, coriander, and chai – yet balanced with a vibrant fruitiness. The tasting notes of Baked Apple and Starfruit are spot-on, evoking a pear-like sweetness, amplified when stewed with cinnamon and clove. This combination of baking spices, starfruit, and baked apple is both comforting and bright. While I’ve encountered blends with spiced pear notes, none possessed the clarity and focus of this remarkable Single Origin gem from Partners Coffee Brooklyn.
Colombia, Los Primas: A Tale of Two Roasts
Partners Coffee Colombia Los Primas bean bag
Coincidentally, I had recently reviewed a Japanese roaster’s interpretation of Los Primas. The contrast was striking. Partners Coffee Roasters and the Japanese roaster approached both roasting and recipe development in vastly different ways, resulting in dramatically different flavor profiles. Partners Coffee’s Los Primas emphasized a prominent lime flavor, with subtle hints of grape and sweet berries in the background. A nutty orange blossom note lingered pleasantly. The Japanese version offered a delicate orange blossom and hazelnut in a tea-like cup. While the Japanese roast was refined, Partners Coffee’s version was more engaging and distinctive, showcasing their unique roasting style in Brooklyn.
Costa Rica, Santa Teresa: Challenging Costa Rican Coffee Norms
Partners Coffee Costa Rica Santa Teresa bean bag
Costa Rican coffees often strike me as somewhat predictable, but Partners Coffee Brooklyn’s Santa Teresa defied this expectation. Mirroring their approach with the Honduran, they’ve roasted this coffee to harmonize its bright acidity with approachable, balanced base notes. The listed tasting notes – Caramel Apple, Cherry Soda, and Blonde Brownie – sound unusual, yet they coalesce beautifully. I’d describe the flavor spectrum as encompassing root beer, vanilla, a musky Tonka Bean scent, and bright cherry and red apple notes. The overall impression leans towards the “blondie” description, with subtle, nuanced flavors intertwining seamlessly. This Costa Rican coffee is a testament to Partners Coffee’s ability to elevate even familiar origins.
Ethiopia, Worka Sakaro: A Dark Roast Ethiopian Surprise
Partners Coffee Ethiopia Worka Sakaro bean bag
Ethiopian coffees consistently rank among my favorites, renowned for their quality and diversity, from fruit-forward profiles to delicate, tea-like brews. Partners Coffee Brooklyn’s Worka Sakaro offered a surprising twist: a dark roast of a floral Ethiopian. The result was a rich coffee flavor infused with blackberry and jasmine aromas. A sweet butterscotch note enhanced the mouthfeel, preventing any harshness. While not the typical Ethiopian profile I seek, this coffee was a welcome departure, demonstrating Partners Coffee’s versatility and willingness to experiment, even with classic origins. It’s a coffee designed to invigorate even seasoned coffee aficionados.
Elevate Espresso Blend: Dessert in a Shot
Partners Coffee Elevate Espresso Blend bean bag
In espresso, I prioritize a robust base for milk-based drinks – good flavor, complexity, but above all, balance. Elevate Espresso Blend from Partners Coffee Brooklyn redefined my expectations. The intense sweetness of the ristretto shot was unparalleled in its simplicity. The Red Apple and Pecan Pie notes were so pronounced and well-defined that this coffee became my preferred dessert for weeks. While it performed admirably as a latte, diluting its core flavors with milk or sugar felt almost sacrilegious. Elevate is an espresso blend that stands confidently on its own.
Brooklyn Blend, Filter Coffee: Simple Excellence
Partners Coffee Brooklyn Blend filter coffee bag
The Brooklyn Blend is a bestseller at Partners Coffee, and initially, I was puzzled by its widespread appeal, especially after experiencing their adventurous Single Origins. It’s undeniably a good cup of coffee – light, pleasant, fruity, and chocolatey, embodying the familiar coffee flavor many associate with their morning routine. However, it felt somewhat ordinary compared to the Single Origins. Perhaps I expected Partners Coffee Brooklyn to revolutionize every coffee they offered. The blend leans slightly darker than medium roast. My initial critique was met with surprise when Liza, tasting it, simply declared, “Oh, that’s really good.” Her reaction highlighted the point: it’s simply a consistently great, approachable cup of coffee, a staple every cafe should offer.
Geoff Rickly from Coffee Curated concluding the Partners Coffee review
Roaster Roundup: Final Thoughts on Partners Coffee Brooklyn
Even if Partners Coffee Roasters’ coffee were merely average, I’d likely still support them. They represent a significant independent roaster in Brooklyn, resisting corporate consolidation, employing people within my community, and, admittedly, crafting an excellent flat white. However, Partners Coffee Brooklyn impressed me far beyond expectations. Their roasting expertise, dedication to craft, and commitment to educating coffee drinkers are evident in every cup. They have successfully stepped out of the shadow of the Toby’s Estate name, establishing themselves as a leading force in the New York coffee scene. Partners Coffee is not just a rebrand; it’s a testament to quality, independence, and a genuine passion for exceptional coffee in Brooklyn.
All quotes are reconstructed from shorthand notes taken during interviews. Some paraphrasing has occurred.
–Geoff Rickly, musician/writer/coffee enthusiast, coffee. curated.
